Chapter 1: Mexico to Idyllwild


The day before I started I, like many hundreds before me, made my way through San Diego to the house of Scout and Frodo’s: trail angels who have graciously allowed hikers to stay at their place and prepare for the journey ahead.

There, I met Ant Man, Black Widow, Giggles, and Mug, along with many more hikers who I’d meet again on my northbound hike.

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Scout and Frodo's backyard
Scout and Frodo's backyard
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Gathered in a circle, sharing our life stories
Gathered in a circle, sharing our life stories
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Scout, Frodo, and Ant Man
Scout, Frodo, and Ant Man
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Mug packing his bag
Mug packing his bag

On May 1st, we quietly packed our bags well before the sun rose and made our way into the cars of volunteers who drove us down to the Mexican border, where we began. On the first major climb out, the charming and vivacious Flamingo Kid overtook me and quickly out-hiked me.

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Heading up to the border between Mexico and the US
Heading up to the border between Mexico and the US
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The monument at the southern terminus
The monument at the southern terminus
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Pointing north to Canada
Pointing north to Canada
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Sweet Cakes climbing on the monument
Sweet Cakes climbing on the monument
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Me, sitting in front of the monument
Me, sitting in front of the monument
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Mug in front of the monument
Mug in front of the monument

Carrying an excessive amount of food made this first day one of the most physically demanding for me. After a hot and tiring hike, I finally reached the cool and sheltered Hauser Creek at the base of the ascent to Lake Morena. My shoulders doubted this entire endeavor, and I could barely sit up straight.

Here, I camped with Ant Man, Black Widow, her friend Willow, Giggles, Tiny Dancer, B&E, Flamingo Kid, and Misplaced. Just the day before we were strangers, but that night we started our trail family.

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Sweet Cakes and B&E, through the trees
Sweet Cakes and B&E, through the trees
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Sweet Cakes ahead of me
Sweet Cakes ahead of me
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B&E climbing up the hill behind me
B&E climbing up the hill behind me
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Ant Man climbing up the hill as well
Ant Man climbing up the hill as well
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The first of many lizards we would see through the desert
The first of many lizards we would see through the desert

After a quick stop in Lake Morena for hot food, despite still having too much in my pack, I met Dobby, and the rest of the group met Adventure Time. Adventure Time advised us to meet up with him later in the day at Kitchen Creek. After a long day of hiking, we cooled off in the creek, set up camp next to the waters, and slept to the sound of croaking frogs.

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Giggles and Black Widow climbing up to Lake Morena
Giggles and Black Widow climbing up to Lake Morena
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A beautiful inversion behind us
A beautiful inversion behind us
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Rocks over Lake Morena
Rocks over Lake Morena
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The trail continues out of Lake Morena
The trail continues out of Lake Morena
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... and underneath underpasses
... and underneath underpasses
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Setting up for the night at Kitchen Creek
Setting up for the night at Kitchen Creek
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Giggles, Black Widow, Adventure Time, Sweet Cakes, and Willow listening to the frogs
Giggles, Black Widow, Adventure Time, Sweet Cakes, and Willow listening to the frogs
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Night comes to our mobile village
Night comes to our mobile village

We left the desert floor to enter the beautiful pine forests of Mount Laguna where Black Widow, Giggles, and I shared a tiny home, cramming our sleeping pads next to each other, waking with each crinkle as we tossed and turned.

The next day, we stepped north of town and watched the sun rise over the Anza-Borrego desert, where we were about to enter.

Seventeen miles later, we filled up on water at a questionable cistern and ate a quick dinner. As I left, a truck that was zooming by screeched to a halt, where a man poked his head out. Noticing my hiking attire, he asked me if I wanted an extremely cold beer. I declined, but he then tried offering an orange, which I happily agreed to as he got out and opened a cooler full of ice.

This was my first on-trail “trail magic” - an act of selfless giving from someone who just wanted to help hikers on the PCT.

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Misty morning behind Ant Man
Misty morning behind Ant Man
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Don't leave the trail
Don't leave the trail
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Willow and Black Widow trekking on
Willow and Black Widow trekking on
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The sun rises over the Anza-Borrego
The sun rises over the Anza-Borrego
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Ant Man checks out the ledge
Ant Man checks out the ledge
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Tiny Dancer also check outs the ledge
Tiny Dancer also check outs the ledge
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Black Widow, Giggles, and Willow pose
Black Widow, Giggles, and Willow pose
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Behind Giggles, Black Widow, B&E and Ant Man
Behind Giggles, Black Widow, B&E and Ant Man
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Sneak peak of what's to come
Sneak peak of what's to come
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Ant Man in the heat of the day
Ant Man in the heat of the day
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Ant Man lost in the green
Ant Man lost in the green

We had one more day to Scissor’s Crossing, where we were to attempt our first hitchhike into the town of Julian. The group got a bit mixed up, however, as several members took the wrong route in the dark of the early morning. We reunited under the bridge at Scissor’s Crossing, where hikers sprawled around a water cache maintained by the locals, and slept off the heat of the day.

Eventually, we all got rides into Julian from local trail angels. One trail angel in particular, named Ghost, stood out to me. Once in Julian, we immediately stopped by Mom’s, who provided all hikers carrying a PCT permit a free slice of pie, where I grabbed a table with Adventure Time, White Stripe, Little Hamster, and Butters. Little Hamster, whom I had met under the bridge, and I convinced each other that we both had deserved a nice place in town to stay. We grabbed separate rooms at a local AirBnB, while the rest of my gang stayed at the lodge. We all met up later for Cinco de Mayo margaritas and dinner.

A local gear outfitter, Two Foot Adventures, arranged rides for us back to Scissor’s Crossing, and unlike the rest of my group, I waited until the sun set to hike. I passed my group setting up camp a few miles later, but as the climb to Third Gate water cache was notably exposed, I hiked well past sunset, almost tripping over Dobby’s campsite in the dark. As the wind picked up, my nerves got the best of me and I called my friend from work, Elleen. Eventually, I camped just before the water cache, which was immaculately maintained by local volunteers, including Ghost.

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Chilling underneath Scissor's Crossing
Chilling underneath Scissor's Crossing
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Free pie at Mom's. Featuring White Stripe, Jo, and Floss
Free pie at Mom's. Featuring White Stripe, Jo, and Floss
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Willow freaking out about the baby goats
Willow freaking out about the baby goats
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Leaving Scissor's crossing as the sun starts to dip
Leaving Scissor's crossing as the sun starts to dip
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Some nice light before the dark
Some nice light before the dark

The next day, we passed the mile 100 marker and a mile past that we celebrated with a trip to Montezuma Market. There, we snacked and drank outside the shop to our heart’s content, meeting AKA.

Past the cow fields, we set up camp at a dried out creek bed and agreed to do a quick out and back to Eagle Rock, where we watched the sun sink into the fields and the stars come out.

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The sun rises on mile 100
The sun rises on mile 100
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Ant Man looking at the 100 mile marker
Ant Man looking at the 100 mile marker
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Black Widow at mile 100
Black Widow at mile 100
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Little Hamster at mile 100
Little Hamster at mile 100
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AKA and Little Hamster chilling at a spring
AKA and Little Hamster chilling at a spring
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Golden hour Black Widow
Golden hour Black Widow
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Giggles and Ant Man at sunset
Giggles and Ant Man at sunset
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The crew at Eagle Rock
The crew at Eagle Rock
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Eagle Rock under the stars (not our tent)
Eagle Rock under the stars (not our tent)

I’d be remiss to not mention that my stomach was treating me poorly, and I could not eat more than a thousand calories each day. The next few days were painful, as cramps wracked me with every step.

Over the next two days we met Dylan - a wildland firefighter carrying a full-size chainsaw to raise awareness for mental health among firefighters, gratefully got water from caches at Mike’s and Mary’s, received trail magic from Lifeguard and Zelda, and saw an abundance of rattlesnakes.

After crawling into Paradise Valley Cafe, I ate the largest salad I could stomach, and we received a very kind hitch into the town of Idyllwild, where we reunited with Flamingo Kid. Ant Man, AKA, Black Widow, Willow, Giggles, Little Hamster, and I rented a beautiful cabin in town and planned for our first full rest day.

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Cow friends
Cow friends
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Mike's Place water caches
Mike's Place water caches
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Trail magic from Lifeguard and Zelda
Trail magic from Lifeguard and Zelda
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Finally made it to the cafe
Finally made it to the cafe
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Hitching into Idyllwild
Hitching into Idyllwild